🔒 The No Contact Phase

  • Everything is new and overwhelming. Even if the dog is out of a shelter or rescue and in a better environment, it’s still a major adjustment.
  • Focus on settling in—no dog-dog interaction yet.
    • Build trust with humans.
    • Establish routines: eating, sleeping, elimination.
    • Begin communication and introduce house rules.
  • Avoid layering more stress until your new dog shows only light signs of stress (or ideally none).

🚪 The Protected Contact Phase

  • Relaxation is the foundation. Our long-term goal is coexisting peacefully, not just constant play.
  • Use physical barriers to set expectations and keep everyone safe:
    • Doors, crates, gates, and leashes.
  • Slowly decrease barrier intensity:
  • Crated, behind a closed door
  • Crated, behind a barrier (no visual)
  • Crated, behind a visual barrier
  • Crated in the main living space
  • One leashed dog, one crated in living space
  • One dog free-roaming, other crated
  • Both leashed, separated in same room

⚠️ Muzzle training should be complete before this stage if either dog has a bite history or risk indicators.


🔗 The Partially Protected Contact Phase

  • Dogs can now share space, but with safety tools like leashes or tethers.
  • Slowly add arousal-triggering items like toys or food.
  • Sample progression:
    • Leashed and settled nearby
    • One leashed and moving, one settled
    • Both leashed and walking (great time for parallel walks!)
    • Leashed while practicing cues in the same room
    • Leashed and calm while the other plays
    • Leashed but dragging while training/playing in proximity

🎯 If a dog is muzzle-trained, continue exposing them to varied situations to reduce risk and reliance on the muzzle long-term.


🟢 The Unprotected Contact Phase

  • Now dogs can interact freely, off-leash, with supervision.
  • Start with short, structured bursts of play. Use verbal cues to guide behavior.
  • Encourage frequent play breaks to maintain lower arousal.

Healthy Play Checklist:

  • Loose, relaxed bodies
  • Role swapping (chaser/chasee, top/bottom)
  • Short pauses (shakes, bows) and longer check-ins
  • No fixation, bullying, or escalating intensity

Expand to:

  • Paired dog-human play indoors & outdoors
  • Toy sharing: start with low-value toys, then increase value & duration
  • Full-access walks with two handlers until trust is well established

⚡ Simulating Life Events (Stress Testing)

Because real life happens, practice and observe during these:

  • Thunderstorms, fireworks, or anxiety triggers—dogs may redirect if one is fearful.
  • Doorbells, guests, or deliveries—huge spikes in arousal.
  • Resource guarding risks—food, toys, beds, people, or access points.
  • Household chaos—vacuuming, loud play, workouts, arguments, sudden noises.

Watch how dogs behave separately to identify triggers before combining.


🧠 Conclusion

  • Integration can feel fast or slow—but “slow is fast and slow is successful.”
  • Avoid preventable setbacks by being thorough on the first pass.
  • Know your dog-dog body language—it’s your greatest tool.
  • Build a shared behavioral foundation (sit, recall, wait, etc.).
  • Ask for help early. A rescue or trainer can make a huge difference in choosing and integrating the right dog.